Productive afternoon, getting ready to head out

It was such a treat to have a few quiet hours with Tom. We have always traveled well together, enjoy 'sploring (exploring), finding off-the-beaten path places, and employing the "see it or so be it" attitude we coined while living in Amsterdam. We returned to a few old haunts and went to the market to get some foodstuffs to bring home: two bags of chestnut flour, a bottle of vin santo, some sepia pasta and a Nivea body lotion I love. Once we get home and unpack, it is always a delight to look over purchases made, remembering when and where you bought and/or tasted them. Tonight we're going out for a final round of drinks and then a last supper, so to speak. Michele's family is joining us, and it will be nice to have a proper chance to say goodbye. I remember when my family and Tom's first started getting to know each other; being the bride-to-be, I wanted so much for everyone to get along. Everyone did, but those initial meetings had some anxiety about them simply because of the expectations. Here, I have been struck by how much easier and calmer it is to meet a family that will, in some respects, become my own but in which I am not one of the primary linchpins.

Most of our packing is done -it's so much easier to pack for your return- and it's starting to feel like the time to get home has come. The kids need to get back to school, back on their schedules, and I need to get back in the kitchen. Catch you stateside.

Almost arrivederci

Last night we had everyone here for dinner, and it was such fun sitting comfortably around our table, in all manner of apparel, feasting on a beautiful meal made by El. Pinsimonio, a new-to-me, absolutely delightful appetizer a bit like crudités, started the evening off with a fresh bang: raw fennel, carrots and artichokes sliced and served with a dipping bowl of good olive oil and sale grosso, coarse salt. Delicious! Then on to risotto with mushrooms and gorgonzola, and finally chicken with capers and oregano. It was really, really fantastic, and I will remake the whole meal many times in the future. Today has been lovely as well. By now it should go without saying that the weather is glorious. Perfect! We walked to La Scuola del Cuoio, the leather school right behind and attached to Santa Croce, to meet Elia who, as a grand negotiator, was going to help Tom attempt to get the price down on a stunning leather jacket I suggested might make a terrific birthday gift. They were wildly successful. Bravo!

In the meantime, the boys and I explored and found some treasures and great views. Here's a sampling.

The leather school is a beautiful place and really quite interesting. We got Fashion Jack a belt, and they measured it to fit him perfectly, cut it down and then stamped his initials on it in gold. He is extremely proud. Oliver did not want a belt. He wanted the tool the craftsman used to imprint the gold leaf. Naturally.

Mom and Dad are taking the kids on an outing this afternoon while T and I pack a little and enjoy the city for a few last hours. It will be good to get home, but this has really been a terrific 10 days.

Sunday in Arezzo

What a fantastic trip we had to Arezzo. The day did not begin in a terribly auspicious way as I heard Oliver calling me early, went in and found him looking and smelling like an excruciatingly out-of-date, savory fruitcake. Studded with bits of meatball and other remnants from last night's dinner, he had clearly thrown up several hours earlier and then slept in it. Disgusting. Another early! morning anti-puke bath for us. He finally fell back asleep but Arezzo called. A quick trip on the train from Florence, we arrived in less than an hour, just as the clouds were burning away to reveal another perfect day. From the base of the hill ("hill" should be loosely considered here; Arezzo is a former Ghibbeline stronghold built up a smallish mountain) to very nearly the top was a marvelous antiques market in which you could buy pretty much everything including a stone kitchen sink I would love to have. We bought two gorgeous liqueur glasses (here's hoping to get them safely home), the boys each were treated to a small toy of his choice (the crane -I know; big surprise- that Oliver got is incredibly well made! We would wish for such fine toys today), and along the way I had the culinary experience of the trip: a warm ricotta-egg flan in a chestnut flour pastry shell drizzled with chestnut honey and grated ricotta salata.

It was so incredible that an hour later I went back for a second one (the waiter smiled and said "you'd like another lunch?" to which I replied, "I love to eat!" and smiled right back) and asked the chef to tell me the recipe. He shared a rough recounting from memory and I cannot wait to work it out at home so that this perfect torta can become a staple! By the end of both lunches, the proprietress and I were pals, I bought a bottle of wine from her and will enthusiastically write a review of her place, Bacco e Arianna, on all possible travel sites. I bought some Arezzan chestnut honey to bring home. Both the fagioli and pici with sage pesto also rendered us all speechless, and I purchased some pici alongside the miele; pici is one of my favorite pasta shapes!

Arezzo is not only quite charming but also visually stunning. Just look at these shots, but a small sampling of the many we took.